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Simplicity:
As I mentioned before, this device is an incredibly clever use of a chunk of plastic. The clever part is the simplicity of design and the use of many techniques already used in PE. The moment I looked at it I knew that I would purchase one or make one.
Materials:
2” cast acrylic rod, quick release valves, eye bolt w/ nut
Equipment:
Taps for the eye bolt and the quick release valve. Eye bolt – go to a hardware store and select an eye bolt/w nut (not longer than 1” of thread) take it to a worker and ask them to help you find the right tap for that bolt. If you can screw the nut onto the tap, buy both items. Quick release valve the one I used has a specialized thread (1/8 NPT) I had to search for that specific tap. Forstner bit.
Miter saw, drill press, hand drill, table router.
You’ll want to make sure the blades are sharp and in good condition. You can only remove a little plastic at a time so you have to take each cut slowly and actions in which you’re removing a lot of materials (routering the edge and drilling the chamber) will take a significant amount of time and effort. The tap should specify the size of the drill bit necessary for that hole. If you don’t have that size bit, buy one as well.
Processes:
Cut the body part - Square each end of the rod, chop 4” from the rod.
Drill the hole for the hanger – measure across one end of the rod, marking the center. Do this three–four times. You’ll likely have 3-4 marks close to each other but not directly on top of each other. This will help you eye-ball the center mark when you drill your anchor hole. Thread the nut onto the bolt until it stops, hold the bolt up to the drill bit to see how deep to drill it (tip of the bit against the nut, threaded section running along next to the bit) and mark with something like painter’s tape. Use the drill press to drill in the center of your group of marks, stopping when you get to the tape.
Router the edge – You’ll notice I have a beveled edge and not a rounded edge. It is incredibly hard to drill a center hole on a rounded edge (the edge of the rod) and I knew that routing a rounded edge then attempting to drill on that surface would likely lead to disaster. Instead, I beveled the edge, which made drilling the hole easier.
Drilling the valve hole – This is the first time you’ll need a jig of some sort. The jig for drilling in round things will work. They are made many different ways, but they have a “V” channel in which you lay the round part and drill. For your hanger you will not lay this down parallel to the channel but perpendicular. Position the beveled edge so it is under the drill bit. Repeat measuring the appropriate depth but mark about 1/8” deeper with your tape. Drill your hole. (good luck) If it isn’t directly center that is OK; difficult but OK.
Drilling the vacuum hole – Using a smaller bit and your hand drill, put the bit into the valve hole and drill a smaller hole until the tip of the hole is about 1 ¼” below the top of the rod.
Drilling the Chamber – This is the toughest part. You need to make sure the piece and the bit are parallel and the bit is drilling dead-center. That is not to say there isn’t room to compensate for errors, it is just you need to be extremely deliberate in everything you do now. One thing you can do is make a clamp or a holder. The most simple is to bore a hole through a 4”x4” the diameter of your rod. Using a mallet, tap your piece into the hole until you feel it is secure. Use a square to ensure it is plumb and tap it with the mallet if it is not. Having marked your hole (very carefully this time) begin drilling the chamber.
Go Slow!!! Remove only about 1/16” of material each time you press down. Your piece will get hot. Heat can change the property of the material and removing too much can make the plastic chip. You can stop and ensure you’re cutting parallel or your piece hasn’t shifted but you must be careful to get the bit back into the chamber properly when you start up again. Drill until you reach 3”.
Use the mallet to remove your piece from the jig then start threading the holes.
Threading the holes – you must ensure your tap is going in line with the hole. It won’t work if the tap is not aligned.
Screw in the eye bolt and tighten the nut against the plastic.
Get a silicone sleeve and a way to attach your weight and you’re golden.
Gotcha’s:
Speed of cutting – Remember that you must slowly remove the material and that cutting, drilling, routing can lead to significant problems if you’re in a hurry.
Valve chamber – One of the trickiest parts is drilling the valve chamber. Drilling from the edge of a convex surface to the center is very tough (I was off a little) but it still works. The problem comes when you have to tap the hole. You have to ensure the tap is aligned to the hole.
Final Product:
IMAG0012.jpg
WORKS LIKE A CHARM!
As I mentioned before, this device is an incredibly clever use of a chunk of plastic. The clever part is the simplicity of design and the use of many techniques already used in PE. The moment I looked at it I knew that I would purchase one or make one.
Materials:
2” cast acrylic rod, quick release valves, eye bolt w/ nut
Equipment:
Taps for the eye bolt and the quick release valve. Eye bolt – go to a hardware store and select an eye bolt/w nut (not longer than 1” of thread) take it to a worker and ask them to help you find the right tap for that bolt. If you can screw the nut onto the tap, buy both items. Quick release valve the one I used has a specialized thread (1/8 NPT) I had to search for that specific tap. Forstner bit.
Miter saw, drill press, hand drill, table router.
You’ll want to make sure the blades are sharp and in good condition. You can only remove a little plastic at a time so you have to take each cut slowly and actions in which you’re removing a lot of materials (routering the edge and drilling the chamber) will take a significant amount of time and effort. The tap should specify the size of the drill bit necessary for that hole. If you don’t have that size bit, buy one as well.
Processes:
Cut the body part - Square each end of the rod, chop 4” from the rod.
Drill the hole for the hanger – measure across one end of the rod, marking the center. Do this three–four times. You’ll likely have 3-4 marks close to each other but not directly on top of each other. This will help you eye-ball the center mark when you drill your anchor hole. Thread the nut onto the bolt until it stops, hold the bolt up to the drill bit to see how deep to drill it (tip of the bit against the nut, threaded section running along next to the bit) and mark with something like painter’s tape. Use the drill press to drill in the center of your group of marks, stopping when you get to the tape.
Router the edge – You’ll notice I have a beveled edge and not a rounded edge. It is incredibly hard to drill a center hole on a rounded edge (the edge of the rod) and I knew that routing a rounded edge then attempting to drill on that surface would likely lead to disaster. Instead, I beveled the edge, which made drilling the hole easier.
Drilling the valve hole – This is the first time you’ll need a jig of some sort. The jig for drilling in round things will work. They are made many different ways, but they have a “V” channel in which you lay the round part and drill. For your hanger you will not lay this down parallel to the channel but perpendicular. Position the beveled edge so it is under the drill bit. Repeat measuring the appropriate depth but mark about 1/8” deeper with your tape. Drill your hole. (good luck) If it isn’t directly center that is OK; difficult but OK.
Drilling the vacuum hole – Using a smaller bit and your hand drill, put the bit into the valve hole and drill a smaller hole until the tip of the hole is about 1 ¼” below the top of the rod.
Drilling the Chamber – This is the toughest part. You need to make sure the piece and the bit are parallel and the bit is drilling dead-center. That is not to say there isn’t room to compensate for errors, it is just you need to be extremely deliberate in everything you do now. One thing you can do is make a clamp or a holder. The most simple is to bore a hole through a 4”x4” the diameter of your rod. Using a mallet, tap your piece into the hole until you feel it is secure. Use a square to ensure it is plumb and tap it with the mallet if it is not. Having marked your hole (very carefully this time) begin drilling the chamber.
Go Slow!!! Remove only about 1/16” of material each time you press down. Your piece will get hot. Heat can change the property of the material and removing too much can make the plastic chip. You can stop and ensure you’re cutting parallel or your piece hasn’t shifted but you must be careful to get the bit back into the chamber properly when you start up again. Drill until you reach 3”.
Use the mallet to remove your piece from the jig then start threading the holes.
Threading the holes – you must ensure your tap is going in line with the hole. It won’t work if the tap is not aligned.
Screw in the eye bolt and tighten the nut against the plastic.
Get a silicone sleeve and a way to attach your weight and you’re golden.
Gotcha’s:
Speed of cutting – Remember that you must slowly remove the material and that cutting, drilling, routing can lead to significant problems if you’re in a hurry.
Valve chamber – One of the trickiest parts is drilling the valve chamber. Drilling from the edge of a convex surface to the center is very tough (I was off a little) but it still works. The problem comes when you have to tap the hole. You have to ensure the tap is aligned to the hole.
Final Product:
IMAG0012.jpg
WORKS LIKE A CHARM!
Valued Member of 
Member of the Month July 2013
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